Sunday, 25 July 2021

Visit the Yucatan # 2 - Uxmal and the Puuc ruta

Let’s continue our little trip in the state of Yucatan by going further east. You can easily find accommodation in the city of Mérida which is the main city of the state. Although not a beach fan, a detour to the port town of Progreso is worth the trip, if only for a good seafood and fish restaurant and a little swim.

The unmissable sites to visit this part of Yucatan are Uxmal, Dzibilchaltun and the Puuc ruta. There are many other sites to see, but you have to know how to choose, unless you are staying there longer!

Uxmal

The Puuc city par excellence, Uxmal was the political and religious capital of the region between the 7th and 10th centuries. The name “Uxmal” means “three times built”, although we have little knowledge of the history of this site, we can notice that the pyramid of the Soothsayer seems to have been raised 3 times. The Xiu tribe ruled Uxmal for a long time.

Entering the site we first discover the Pyramid of the Soothsayer, bypassing it we arrive in a series of small quadrilateral before arriving at the large quadrilateral of the nuns. This palace is a perfect demonstration of the Puuc style with its sober walls while the roofs are teeming with sculptures and mosaics. In the alignment of the southern access, one can see the ball playing field.

The visit continues to the Governor’s Palace. This 99m long building was a demonstration of authority on the part of Señor Chaac who ruled the region around AD 900. The royal throne, representing two jaguars, is in perfect alignment with the planet Venus, a proof of more knowledge of the Mayan peoples if necessary. On the roof we find a huge waving serpent and two-headed snakes similar to those in the Nuns’ Quadrangle.

Going around the palace, you arrive at the great pyramid which is only discovered on the north face. From above, the view of the site and the jungle is breathtaking. We then realize the size of the site and the potential of other wonders not yet revealed in this jungle.

The Puuc route

Uxmal is central to many other lesser sites like Kabah, Sayil, Xlapak, and Labna. These ruins form the Puuc ruta. It is possible to tour these sites in one day by car (approximately 120 km).
These ruins reveal the Puuc style, with the sober walls and the abundant roofs as evoked in Uxmal. In this region, there are no cenotes like in Chichen Itza to keep water, the rain god was then one of the most important, symbol of fertility. This is the god Chaac that can be recognized in each of these sites.

You can end the route with the Loltun caves. Impressive in size, ancient civilizations used them as shelters and as a place of worship in the depths.

Be careful on this road, access to all sites is chargeable. In Loltun, the visit must be guided but the guide is not included in the entry price. Make sure you have enough cash for this day, the sites are not equipped with card readers or ATMs from international banks.

Dzibilchaltún

Located a few kilometers north of Mérida, this archaeological site is considered one of the most ancient. Less tall than Chichen or Uxmal, he is well known for his temple of the seven dolls. This temple owes its name to the clay figurines found there. Standing at the end of a long alley, its openings are in line with the sun during the equinoxes.

Behind the square of the site containing various temples and buildings, you will find the cenote Xlacah, flush with the ground, it invites you to a refreshing swim in this magical place. As in Uxmal, you will not be able to miss the many iguanas which take the sun on the hot stones.

At the exit of the site, you can also visit the Museum of the Maya people which will allow you to understand a little better the life in the region until the Spanish conquest.